Day 2 - 17 Sept: Pismo State Beach Campground, CA to Ponderosa Campground, CA

Awoke to a glorious morning, which didn't last long as a sea mist - 'fret'? - blew in. Had planned to go for a swim but Ruth and the boys dipped their toes in this side of the Pacific and found it FREEZING...so I didn't bother. Got on the road, in search of somewhere to buy some supplies - camping and grocery. San Louis Obispo was the first stop - fabulous. Didn't find what we wanted, but loved the place and did stumble upon a decent coffee. Pressed on up the coast to Morro Bay, a small town full of thrift shops that catered admirably to our need for camping additions - mugs, kettle, colander - and had a large Alberton's, from which we were able to purchase all our short-term food requirements. Had lunch next to a colony of seals - presumably of the Californian fur variety. Not really visible in this shot but lounging all over the platform in the middle. Took great exception to anyone deigning to venture near in a kayak, and barked loudly at them in protest.

Back in the van and on up the coast to Hearst Castle, the family home of the Hearst family, made famous - and incredible - by William Randolph. Unfortunately we were a bit too late to take in the tour, but had a look around the Visitor Center and were suitably impressed. A different kind of seal next as we found the colony of elephant seals that live at Piedras Blancas. Very amusing noise, they make.

The drive on from there took us into Big Sur proper...really, really amazing. A truly fantastic drive, spectacular in places, with blue-sky perfection. Could have stopped at every 'Vista Point' to take photos...but didn't.

Having taken our time, we realised we were pushing it to get to the next campsite by nightfall, and after the previous evening's experience we wanted to avoid an arrival in darkness...especially as the road looked like this.

As we went up and up the very narrow road in our wide, unwieldy truck, and the sheer, unprotected drop got higher and higher, thoughts of The Italian Job and various James Bond car chase scenes ending in flames were dispelled, and we eventually made it to the utterly deserted campground. 

Somewhat spooked by the absence of any other people and wondering what was wrong with the place, Ruth and I decided to take the roof-top berth tonight (even though there was no mention of bears in the area). Incredibly and completely dark and quiet with no other people for literally miles around us - in the middle of a state with a population of 38 million.